Key research themes
1. How do nonlinear wave interactions and second-order effects explain the generation and statistics of rogue waves in short-crested sea states?
This research theme focuses on identifying the physical mechanisms responsible for rogue wave occurrences in realistic oceanic conditions, emphasizing the role of nonlinear wave-wave interactions and second-order bound nonlinearities in shaping wave statistics. It challenges the classical modulational instability paradigm by using field data and nonlinear simulations to quantify contributions from second- and third-order nonlinearities in short-crested seas typical of ocean wind waves.
2. What are the mathematical and physical characteristics of short and long wave interactions in coastal and shallow water environments?
This research theme investigates the propagation, resonance, and modulation of long and short waves in complex coastal, harbor, and shallow water systems, focusing on nonlinear wave solutions, wave transformation across varying bathymetry, and resonance phenomena such as seiches and edge waves. It integrates analytical approaches, exact solutions, and experimental validations, to understand wave-current-bottom interactions influencing coastal engineering and wave-induced mixing.
3. How do wave statistics and nonlinear wave dynamics evolve in short- and long-term contexts for shallow and intermediate water wave climates?
This theme addresses the statistical modeling and experimental characterization of wave height and period distributions, combining short- and long-term observational data with joint probability models to better understand extreme event probabilities and evolving wave climates as waves propagate from deep to shallower waters. Methodologies emphasize the integration of wave directionality, transformations, and nonlinear interactions impacting wave forecasting and coastal design applications.